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From the grape you know to the French name
The rest of the world labels its bottles by grape. France labels by place, and almost never prints the grape. Here is the bridge, and what is likely to surprise you.
Pinot Noir
RedLight, perfumed, red cherry and forest floor. Little tannin.
Look for on the list
- Bourgogne rouge
- Every red Burgundy is pinot noir, without exception.
- Mercurey
- Same grape, half the price of a famous Burgundy.
- Sancerre rouge
- Sancerre is not only white: its red is pinot noir.
What will surprise you
French pinot noir is sharper and less overtly fruity than the New World versions. It also costs more for the same quality: Burgundy is the most expensive land in wine.
Chardonnay
WhiteFrom taut lemon to butter and hazelnut, depending on the ageing.
Look for on the list
- Chablis
- Unoaked chardonnay, mineral and taut.
- Mâcon-Villages
- Rounder and far cheaper than the famous Burgundy names.
- Meursault
- The richest and most buttery, and the most expensive.
What will surprise you
Every white Burgundy is chardonnay, but a Chablis tastes nothing like a Californian one. If you like the buttery, oaky style, ask for Meursault or Mâcon, not Chablis.
Sauvignon Blanc
WhiteSharp, citrussy, grassy. Often a hint of blackcurrant leaf.
Look for on the list
- Sancerre
- The world benchmark for sauvignon, and by far the most asked for.
- Pouilly-Fumé
- Sancerre's neighbour, a little smokier, often a little cheaper.
- Touraine
- The same grape for half the price. The smart buy on any Loire list.
What will surprise you
Loire sauvignon is more mineral and far less exuberant than New Zealand's. If you love the passionfruit explosion of a Marlborough, French sauvignon will seem restrained: that restraint is the point.
Cabernet Sauvignon
RedBlackcurrant, cedar, firm tannin. The classic wine to age.
Look for on the list
- Médoc
- Bordeaux's left bank: cabernet-dominant, the classic style.
- Pauillac
- The heart of the Médoc, the most structured. Expensive.
- Haut-Médoc
- The same country, a broader appellation, far gentler prices.
What will surprise you
A Bordeaux is never pure cabernet: it is always a blend with merlot and others. And it is leaner and more savoury than a Napa cabernet, with less sweet fruit.
Merlot
RedRound, supple, plummy. Less tannin than cabernet.
Look for on the list
- Saint-Émilion
- Bordeaux's right bank, merlot-dominated.
- Pomerol
- The most prestigious merlot on earth. Prices follow.
- Bordeaux supérieur
- The entry level, largely merlot-based. On every list in France.
What will surprise you
Merlot is the most planted grape in Bordeaux, well ahead of cabernet. If a French red feels soft and approachable, it is usually merlot doing the work.
Syrah / Shiraz
RedBlack pepper, olive, dark fruit. Firm without being heavy.
Look for on the list
- Crozes-Hermitage
- The way into the northern Rhône, affordable and true to the grape.
- Saint-Joseph
- A step up, finer, still reasonable.
- Cornas
- The darkest, most powerful syrah in the Rhône.
What will surprise you
Every northern Rhône red is pure syrah. But it is nothing like an Australian Shiraz: leaner, peppery, savoury rather than jammy. Same grape, opposite character.
Grenache
RedWarm, generous, scrubland herbs and ripe fruit.
Look for on the list
- Côtes du Rhône
- Mostly grenache. The best value on most French lists.
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape
- Grenache at its peak, rich and powerful.
- Gigondas
- Châteauneuf's neighbour, nearly as good, markedly cheaper.
What will surprise you
Grenache easily reaches 15% alcohol: these are warming wines. A Côtes du Rhône is also the single safest cheap red on a French list.
Riesling
WhiteLemon, flint, bracing acidity.
Look for on the list
- Alsace Riesling
- The only French region that prints the grape on the label.
- Alsace Grand Cru
- Alsace's best slopes, often riesling.
What will surprise you
Alsace riesling is dry: unlike many German rieslings, which are off-dry. If you were expecting sweetness, you will not find it here. Alsace is also the one French region that labels by grape, so it is the easiest list to read.
Malbec
RedDark, inky, plum and cocoa.
Look for on the list
- Cahors
- Malbec's birthplace, in the South-West. Firmer than Argentina's.
What will surprise you
Malbec was born in Cahors long before Argentina made it famous, and the French original is more tannic, more savoury and less velvety. Locals still call it côt or auxerrois.
Gamay
RedLight, juicy, raspberry. Drink it cool.
Look for on the list
- Morgon
- The fleshiest Beaujolais, able to age.
- Fleurie
- The most floral and elegant.
- Beaujolais-Villages
- The honest entry level, around twenty euros.
What will surprise you
Beaujolais nouveau wrecked the region's reputation unfairly. The named villages (Morgon, Fleurie, Brouilly) are serious wines, and among the best value in France.
Chenin Blanc
WhiteQuince, honey, high acidity. Dry or sweet depending on the appellation.
Look for on the list
- Vouvray sec
- Careful: plain “Vouvray” may be off-dry. Ask for sec.
- Savennières
- The most serious chenin, always dry.
What will surprise you
The word “Vouvray” covers bone-dry and sweet wines alike, and the label rarely shouts which. Always say sec unless you want sugar: this catches out more visitors than any other French appellation.
Viognier
WhiteApricot, white flowers, broad texture. Low acidity.
Look for on the list
- Condrieu
- The benchmark viognier, rare and expensive.
- Vin de pays des Collines rhodaniennes
- The same grape, without the prestigious name or its price.
What will surprise you
Viognier is France's most perfumed white and one of its rarest. If a list has a Condrieu, it will be among the most expensive whites on it.
And on the list in front of you?
Photograph it and just name the grape you like: Cépage knows which one hides behind each appellation, and tells you which bottle to take.
Scan a list